For anyone purchasing or remodeling a home, knowing the facts of insulation and the r-value ratings is very important. It is so important that not knowing what r-value insulation ratings mean and how different ratings affect your utility bill can end up costing you a lot of money that you could have saved. Simply put, r-value insulation ratings are used in measuring how well an insulation product can resist the flow of heat. Insulation products with a higher r-value are more effective than those with lower r-values. The facts of insulation r-value and the different types of insulation are important for any home owner.
Although basic common sense would seem to dictate that the thicker an insulation product, the better it will be at the job of insulating a home. Unfortunately, this is a case where common sense is incorrect. Insulation with a higher r-value doesn’t necessarily mean that it is thicker than products with lower r-values. In fact, it’s probably thinner than lower-rated insulation products. Actually, if two products are different in thickness, if they have identical r-value ratings, then they will probably be equally good at resisting heat. The facts of insulation r-value is sometimes completely against common sense.
Unfortunately, not all facts of insulation r-value products are necessarily positive. The way that testing is done on insulation in order to determine its r-value is by testing the product in an environment with a stable temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit, where there is no air movement at all. Obviously, we use insulation in rooms and homes where the problem is that we have too much air movement and temperature isn’t always an ideal 70 degrees. Sometimes the insulation’s r-value isn’t always a truly accurate indicator of how well it resists heat flow.
In North America, the standard insulation rating of R-12 is the recommended level (this can vary though from state to state). There are many interesting facts of insulation r-value and how they are created and used. It may seem obvious, but the r-value of certain types of housing insulation is dramatically lowered if there are air or water leaks. Here’s one of the interesting facts of insulation r-value: Insulation one inch thick is actually the equivalent of having 30 inches of concrete. That’s how effective true insulation products are at resisting heat flow.
However, there are three main types of insulation and each one is made from a different material. House insulation r-value in blown-in-cellulose is actually 3.70 per inch. Another material widely used for insulation is fiberglass and it has a rating at 3.14 per inch. Finally, one of the best materials is expanded polystyrene which is at 4.00 per inch.
The goal is to protect your home and keep the air inside stable and comfortable no matter what the weather outside is like. Learning the facts about insulation r-value will help you when deciding what type of insulation you want to have installed into your home. It may cost you more money up front to buy better insulation, but you’ll definitely save money in the long run when you realize that the insulation is doing its job. In the end, learning the facts about r-value will help you save a lot of money.
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April 14th, 2010 at 9:02 am
We are considering using Temper Shield. Do you have any comments on that.
June 15th, 2010 at 2:31 pm
“In the end, learning the facts about r-value will help you save a lot of money.”
Good advice.
“The facts of insulation r-value is sometimes completely against common sense.”
R-value measures conductive heat transfer through a material. The higher the r-value, the lower the heat transfer. Simple.
“However, there are three main types of insulation and each one is made from a different material.”
There are many types of insulation. And the numbers for R-value vary somewhat. Also, while expanded polystyrene may have a slightly higher R-value, that doesn’t mean it is always ‘best’. Certainly using EPS for filling a stud bay would be a large mistake, and would probably not achieve the r-value of cellulose in the same application, but it would be far more expensive (not to mention requiring far more energy to make). On the other hand the are many applications where it would be vastly superior to cellulose.
Thank You Kindly.
August 2nd, 2010 at 3:12 am
Hello,
How much does it cost or what site can I use fo installation of insulation in attic and basement?
Really great post, enjoyed reading it. Thanks
December 15th, 2010 at 10:30 pm
My question is this. My attic is a walk in attic with a high peaked roof. Will installing insulation in between the roof joists be enough, or do I also need to put insulation into the floor, which would be the ceilings for my second floor, which would mean emptying out the attic(currently used for alot of storage)and pulling up the floor to put in insulation. Tell me what you think on that.
April 12th, 2011 at 11:43 am
For instructions on installing a radiant barrier in your attic – the best site out there is AtticFoil.com. As for basements, you can use a green energy barrier to help stop heat loss from the home into the basement, but otherwise you’d stick to traditional insulation. Costs depend on if you DIY or hire someone. For radiant barrier installation it can range from cents per square foot to several dollars – depending on the time of year, the size of the attic and the installation method. Buy radiant barrier yourself and you can get a typical attic done for under $300.
April 12th, 2011 at 12:00 pm
The only time when adding insulation to the rafter bays on the roof is appropriate is when you are sealing up your attic and making it into a living space that you will heat and cool. This got popular for a while and it is really the wrong place for insulation. Insulation belongs up against the thermal envelope (or the living space) which in your case would be along the attic floor. I realize with the work involved, that is probably not the answer you wanted to hear – but it is what is going to be the best results and use of your money and time. Additionally you could add a radiant barrier to your rafters to further help with preventing heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. Because it appears you use your attic floor for storage, I recommend the radiant barrier be stapled up.